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Sacred Stones & Silent Stories: A Visit to Jeondong Catholic Church
- kmj
- Oct 7
- 4 min read
On our way to Nambu Market, we stumbled upon Jeondong Catholic Church. It was early in the morning, and the streets were quiet. There wasn’t anyone around, so we were free to walk through the grounds and take our time.
The red brick and arched windows stood out against the traditional hanok rooftops nearby. It felt unexpected seeing a European-style church in the middle of a historic Korean neighborhood. Built by French missionaries in the early 1900s, the church sits on a site where some of Korea’s first Catholic martyrs were executed.
Jeonju's Catholic Church: Where East Meets West
You’ll hear locals call it Jeondong Seongdang (전동성당), its full Korean name, but travelers often just know it as “that European-looking church next to the Hanok Village.” What most don’t realize is that this graceful, brick-faced structure is one of Korea’s oldest and most significant Catholic buildings.
Standing right at the edge of the Hanok Village, Jeondong Catholic Church is a striking example of how two worlds can exist side by side. One foot in Korea’s Confucian past, the other in its spiritual transformation.
Set on the former site of executions carried out during the Joseon Dynasty’s Catholic persecution, the church's very foundations are layered with spiritual and historical meaning. It was built as a memorial, a place of worship, and a physical statement: that faith, once forbidden, had stood at the heart of the city.
The design is clearly Romanesque Revival, with semi-circular arches, thick stone columns, and three gentle domes rising toward the sky. But if you look closely, you’ll see small nods to Korean craftsmanship with local stone, delicate carvings, and the way the structure harmonizes with the rhythm of the nearby hanok rooftops.
The First Korean Martyrs
Back in 1791, long before Jeondong Cathedral existed, two men made a choice that changed history. Yun Ji-chung Paul and his cousin Kwon Sang-yeon James were early Korean Catholics who refused to abandon their faith. When Yun’s mother died, he held a Catholic funeral Mass instead of following Confucian ancestral rites. For the Joseon court, this was unthinkable.
Both men were arrested, tried, and executed right here in Jeonju. They became the first recorded Catholic martyrs in Korea. Their courage opened the door for thousands more who would follow and their memory still anchors this place.
In 2014, Pope Francis recognized their sacrifice, officially beatifying Yun and Kwon as pioneers of Korean Catholicism.
The French Missionary Who Built a Cathedral
Fast forward a century. The Catholic community in Jeonju had survived waves of persecution, and the time had come to build something permanent. Enter Fr. Victor Louis Poisnel (1855–1925), a French missionary priest with an eye for architecture.
Poisnel designed Jeondong Cathedral in a Romanesque-Byzantine style, mixing red and gray brick with soaring arches. Construction began in 1908, and by 1914, the church stood complete as a lasting memorial on the very site where Yun and Kwon were executed.
The First Pastor of Jeondong: Fr. François Xavier Baudounet
While Poisnel may have designed the cathedral, it was Fr. François Xavier Baudounet (1859–1915) who carried the torch of leadership in its early years. Born in Aveyron, France, Baudounet was ordained in 1884 and arrived in Korea just a year later. By 1889, he had been appointed as the first parish priest of Jeondong, shepherding the community through a time of growth and transition.
He remained in Jeonju until his death in 1915, remembered as a patient and devoted pastor who strengthened the local Catholic Church long after the days of persecution. If Poisnel gave Jeondong its walls, Baudounet gave it its heart shaping a community that still thrives today.
Before You Go: Jeondong Catholic Church Travel Tips
Getting There from Jeonju Hanok Village
Jeondong Catholic Church is located at the western edge of Jeonju Hanok Village, just a 2–3 minute walk from the center of the village.
Head west toward Pungnammun Gate (풍남문)
The church is directly across from the gate and clearly visible from the main road
Look for the red-brick building with domed towers and a wide stone staircase
What’s Nearby
Jeonju Hanok Village - A maze of traditional Korean houses, tea rooms, craft shops, and cultural experiences
Pungnammun Gate - A historic stone gate marking the southern entrance to the old city
Gyeonggijeon Shrine- A royal portrait shrine from the Joseon era with beautiful gardens and stone paths
Omokdae Pavilion- A hilltop lookout with panoramic views of the Hanok rooftops below
Street food and local cafés - Grab Jeonju-style bibimbap, choco pies, or traditional teas nearby
Best Time to Visit
Morning (9–11 AM)- Soft light, fewer crowds, peaceful interior atmosphere
Golden Hour (4–6 PM) - Warm tones on the red brick façade and beautiful photo lighting
Spring (April–May) - Mild weather and blossoms around the Hanok Village
Autumn (October–November) - Crisp air and colorful trees around the grounds
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