A Bowl of Memory at Millyang Dwaeji Gukbap: Jagalchi Market, Busan

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After spending the afternoon wandering through Jagalchi Market, stepping around crates of fresh squid, ducking into narrow alleys lined with vendors, and dodging splashes from freshly cleaned fish stalls, I needed to sit down and eat something real. Not another trendy cafe or quick bite. Something hot, homemade, and unmistakably Busan. That’s when I found Millyang Dwaeji Gukbap.

What Is Dwaeji Gukbap

Dwaeji Gukbap and ban chan (side dishes)

If you’re new to it, dwaeji gukbap (돼지국밥) is a simple, flavorful pork soup with rice, and it’s one of Busan’s most famous local dishes. The broth is made by boiling pork bones for hours to create a rich, comforting base. Add thin slices of pork, serve it with rice, and customize it at the table with garlic, green onions, red pepper flakes, or fermented shrimp paste. It’s affordable, filling, and 100 percent comforting. After the Korean War, this dish became a staple in the region, offering nourishment when food was scarce. That history is still in every bowl, even if you’re just grabbing a quick lunch today.

Millyang-style gukbap, named after the city Miryang, is known for having a lighter, clearer broth, and the rice is served on the side, not in the soup. The flavors are cleaner and less salty than other regional versions.

My Meal: Pork Soup, Soondae and a Bit of Soul

Soondae

I ordered a bowl of dwaeji gukbap and added a side of soondae, Korea’s chewy, savory blood sausage. The soondae was slightly chewy, warm, and satisfying. Definitely not a beginner’s dish, but absolutely worth trying if you want the full experience. It all came out on a basic plastic tray with no frills. The soup was piping hot, the rice was perfectly fluffy, and the soondae was served with a little dish of seasoned salt on the side.

Alongside the main dishes came a few small banchan, simple side dishes that completed the meal. There was crisp kkakdugi (cubed radish kimchi), a few slices of traditional baechu kimchi, and a small dish of pickled green peppers with ssamjang. Simple reliable flavors that balance out the richness of the soup.

The broth had a clean, deep, earthy flavor. It wasn’t greasy or heavy, but you could taste the hours it had simmered and layers of pork bone, a subtle sweetness, and just enough fat to make it feel substantial. It was the kind of soup you keep reaching for between bites, not because you’re rushing, but because it just feels good. The pork slices were thin and tender, almost melting into the broth. I added a spoonful of fermented shrimp paste and a few garlic slivers, and that’s when everything clicked. Salty, savory, and perfectly balanced.

The couple running the restaurant looked to be in their seventies. He served the tables. She worked the open kitchen with total confidence. The red sign above the kitchen says "Thank you for coming" in large print. No small talk, no smiles for show. Just quiet pride in what they do. And it shows.

I finished up with a cup of coffee from the instant coffee machine tucked in the corner near the exit. Just one button, one cup at a time, and no choices to make. But that sweet, creamy mix coffee hit perfectly after a hot bowl of soup. It’s a tradition in a lot of older Korean restaurants. A simple, nostalgic end to a meal.

Why This Meal Mattered

This is a bucket-list meal. If you’re visiting Busan and don’t sit down for a bowl of dwaeji gukbap, you’re missing one of the city’s most iconic foods. It’s a regional specialty that’s deeply tied to Busan’s identity.

Locals grow up on this stuff. It’s what you eat after a night out, when you're sick, when you're celebrating, or just when you're hungry and need something solid. And it’s not hard to see why. It’s hearty, affordable, packed with flavor, and impossible to mess up when you’re eating at the right spot.

Before You Go - Travel Tips

Getting there

Millyang Dwaeji Gukbap (밀양돼지국밥) is located right near the main entrance of Jagalchi Market, Busan. Look for the red signage.

When to Visit

·         Go during typical lunch and early dinner hours, around 11 AM to 7 PM

·         Weekdays are quieter

·         Weekends can get busy with locals

·         Go hungry, portions are generous

What to Order

·         Dwaeji Gukbap, pork soup and rice

·         Add sundae if you’re curious and want the full experience

·         Help yourself to mix coffee on your way out

Cash or Card

Both are acceptable

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