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Haeundae Beach: History, Calm, and Coastal Mornings
- kmj
- Jun 3
- 4 min read
Updated: Jun 19
When I visited Haeundae Beach for the first time, I woke up early and headed to the shore. The sun hadn’t fully warmed the sand yet, and the water moved in slow, steady rhythms. I found a spot on the wide concrete steps that lead down to the shore and just sat there for a while. No rush. Just watching with a cup of coffee in hand.
Behind me, I heard laughter. A group of junior high students showed up with their teachers. They were loud in the best way shouting, posing for selfies, jackets swishing as they ran toward the water. It was chaotic and full of life. I just watched them for a bit, smiling without really thinking about it.
Even with all the energy they brought, the beach still felt calm. Like there was enough room for both things to exist. And that’s the feeling I carried with me for the rest of the day.
History Beneath the Sand
Before the beachgoers and skyscrapers, Haeundae was something else entirely. It was a quiet retreat. A place where people came not to swim or take pictures, but to reflect.
The name “Haeundae” comes from a scholar named Choi Chi Won, who lived during the Silla Dynasty in the 9th century. According to local legend, he was passing through the area on his way to Gayasan Mountain. He stopped by Dongbaekseom Island and was so taken by the view the that he carved his pen name, “Haeun,” into a rock along the cliff. He added the character “Dae,” meaning “lookout” or “platform.” That’s where the name Haeundae comes from. It translates to “sea cloud lookout,” and once you see the view for yourself, it makes perfect sense.
For centuries, Haeundae wasn’t a destination. It was a retreat. Monks, poets, and thinkers came to sit by the sea and let their thoughts settle. It stayed that way for a long time, even during Japanese occupation in the early 20th century when small inns and boarding houses started popping up. The beach remained quiet, still known more for reflection than for leisure.
The Shift: From Retreat to Destination
After the Korean War, things began to change. Busan was growing fast. Families started coming to Haeundae in the summer, laying down mats, bringing snacks, and spending full days by the water. The beach became more than just a quiet place. It became a part of people’s lives.
By the 1970s and 80s, Haeundae was being developed as a real tourist spot. Roads were improved. Hotels went up. Beach facilities were built. It was one of the first places in South Korea where the idea of a beach vacation really caught on.
Then, in the 2000s, Haeundae changed again. The skyline grew. Marine City rose up with glass towers and rooftop cafes. The Bay 101 brought in lights, yachts, and nightlife. What started as a quiet shoreline became a full destination, complete with restaurants, rooftop lounges, and international events.
And yet, the beach itself didn’t lose its calm. The tide still rolled in the same way. The sand still felt soft underfoot. Even with all the changes, the core of Haeundae was still there.
Then and Now: What Makes Haeundae Special
What stood out to me the most was how old and new sat side by side without competing.
On one end of the beach, you can walk through pine trees on Dongbaekseom Island, past the stone where Choi Chi Won left his mark. Just minutes away, you’re surrounded by modern cafes, tall buildings, and LED signs.
But it works. It doesn’t feel forced. Haeundae feels layered. It holds onto its past while embracing what’s next. And maybe that’s why it feels so steady. It’s not stuck in time. It just knows how to hold it all.
A Short Walk to Haeundae Market
Just a few blocks from the beach, tucked behind the main road, is Haeundae Traditional Market. If you’re even a little hungry after your beach walk, this is the place to go.
It’s not huge, but it’s full of life. The air is thick with the smell of broth, garlic, and grilled seafood. People crowd around narrow stalls, passing bowls back and forth, sipping soup between conversations.
I started at a small place with a few plastic stools. The woman in front smiled and waved me in without saying a word. I ordered sannakji (live octopus still slightly moving) dipped in sesame oil and salt, and a plate of grilled jeonbok (abalone) that had been seared just enough to keep it tender. After that I walked a few doors down at a place famous for their giant bowl of clam kalguksu. It came out steaming with fresh noodles and a salty, rich broth. I wrapped up the night with a dessert of tanghulu, a traditional Chinese snack that has become very popular in Korea. It's a skewer of fresh fruit coated in a crisp, glossy sugar shell.
That market felt like a different side of Haeundae. No skyline views, no umbrellas. Just the sound of chopsticks tapping against bowls and the comfort of everyday flavors.
Before You Go - Travel Tips
Getting there and What's Nearby
Take Busan Metro Line 2 to Haeundae Station, then walk 10 minutes to the beach. You'll pass cute cafes, convenience stores, and the entrance to Haeundae Market.
· Walk the Dongbaekseom Island trail.
· Grab snacks at Haeundae Market.
· Catch sunset at The Bay 101.
· Visit Haedong Yonggungsa Temple.
· Watch street performers near the boardwalk in the evening.
Best time to visit
Late September to October is ideal. The water is still warm but the summer crowds are gone. Spring is also beautiful. Cherry blossoms bloom near Dongbaekseom Island in April.
Tips for the Best Experience
What to Bring
· A light jacket for the breeze.
· Sunscreen and sunglasses.
· A towel or small blanket.
Where to stay
· Luxury: Park Hyatt Busan (sweeping ocean views, rooftop bar)
· Mid-range: Shilla Stay or MS Hotel (walkable and stylish)
· Budget/Hostel: Canvas Hostel (artsy vibe, great for solo travelers or digital nomads)
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