Backbone Hangover Soup with an Ocean View Near Gwangalli Beach

Book your next adventure to Asia!

One of the best meals we had in Busan came from a spot we didn’t even plan to visit.

It was early in the morning, and we were just a few blocks from Gwangalli Beach, wandering in search of something hot and satisfying. That’s when we passed a small, two-story restaurant with older locals already deep into their soups.

If you’ve been in Korea long enough, you know this is the sign. If the older folks are eating there first thing in the morning, it’s legit. They don’t care about aesthetics or trends. They come for food that’s worth the money and consistently good.

So we walked in.

First Floor Packed, Second Floor Perfect

The first floor was already full. Tables of regulars, solo diners, and early risers were quietly working their way through large, steaming bowls. The kind of crowd that tells you this place doesn’t need advertising. Its reputation does the work.

A woman managing the front gave us a quick wave and motioned for us to head upstairs.

We climbed the stairs and found ourselves in a bright, empty room with big windows and a perfect view of the ocean. It felt like we’d lucked into our own private dining space. Quiet, comfortable, and still close enough to the beach that you could hear the city starting to wake up.

Backbone Soup, Bean Sprouts, and a Food Lift

I ordered the backbone hangover soup (ppyeo-haejangguk) and my travel buddy got the bean sprout hangover soup. A few minutes later, we heard a soft mechanical ding.

Turns out the restaurant uses a small waiter elevator to deliver food from the kitchen to the second floor. The woman came upstairs, grabbed the tray, and brought us our meal. No need to balance boiling bowls on a staircase. Honestly, it’s genius.

Before the soup came out, we got a small spread of banchan: crunchy radish kimchi, fresh bean sprouts, and a few salty green chili peppers with dipping sauce. Simple and solid.

Then the main dishes landed.

My backbone soup came in a deep bowl filled with a spicy red broth, tender pork neck bones, a chunk of potato, and lots of green onion. The flavor was rich and peppery, with just the right amount of heat to wake you up .

The meat was soft and fell right off the bone. I found myself alternating between scooping out broth and digging in for chunks of pork, all while the spice slowly crept in. It was comforting and bold at the same time.

The bean sprout version was lighter, with a clearer broth and clean, fresh flavor. It’s perfect if you want something less intense but still warming. We tried each other’s and agreed that you really can’t go wrong with either.

The History Behind Backbone Hangover Soup

Backbone hangover soup, or ppyeo-haejangguk (뼈해장국), has deep roots in Korean food culture. It’s a type of haejangguk, which translates to “soup to chase a hangover.” These soups go back centuries, traditionally eaten after a long night or as a way to restore energy.

This version uses pork neck bones, which are simmered for hours to create a deep, hearty broth. It’s often loaded with ingredients like potatoes, perilla seeds, and sesame leaves, all thought to help restore your body after drinking or stress. While originally served as a recovery meal, today it's also a comfort food. Something people crave whether they’re hungover or not.

Why This Place Stood Out

There was nothing trendy about this restaurant. No branding. No English signs. No curated plating. Just a room full of people who wanted a good, hot meal and a kitchen that knew exactly how to deliver that.

The second-floor seating with an ocean view made it feel like a secret spot. The food lift was such a thoughtful touch, and the soups? Exactly what we needed to start the day. This wasn’t a flashy find. It was one of those rare, real-deal places that just do everything right and no need to hype it up, no need to filter it for Instagram. It just is good.

Before You Go – Travel Tips

Getting There

This hangover soup restaurant is located a few blocks inland from Gwangalli Beach, Busan. There’s no big English sign, but look for older locals heading in during the early morning. It’s in a two-story building with the dining area on both floors.

When to Visit

· Mornings are ideal. They open early, and it’s when the soup hits best

· Weekdays are quieter than weekends

· The first floor fills up fast do. Ask to be seated upstairs for a peaceful view

· Go hungry because the portions are generous and filling

What to Order

· Backbone hangover soup (뼈해장국) for a bold, spicy, meaty experience

· Bean sprout hangover soup (콩나물해장국) if you want something lighter and clear

· Share both if you’re with a friend. It's a perfect combo

Cash or Card

They accept both, but bring cash just in case your international card doesn’t work. Most small local restaurants prefer it.

Book your next adventure to Asia!