A Coastal Story: Discovering Songak Mountain and Chagwido Island in Jeju
- kmj
- Jul 5
- 4 min read
Updated: Jul 6
The southwestern coast of Jeju feels like a chapter from a quiet sea novel. Beyond the popular beaches and bustling city streets, this edge of the island holds secrets that move with the tides and breathe with the wind. It is a place where volcanic cliffs meet rolling ocean waves, where each gust carries whispers of old stories. Songak Mountain stands watch over the sea with a stoic calm, while Chagwido Island glimmers offshore, holding its own timeless tales. Together they create a coastal story waiting for travelers to unfold it step by step, heartbeat by heartbeat.
The Silent Sentinel — Songak Mountain
Songak Mountain rises on Jeju’s southwestern coast like a quiet sentinel. The first glimpse reveals gentle green slopes that roll down toward the sea, but the mountain holds a deeper story beyond its graceful curves. Songak is a volcanic creation with a wide crater that opens toward the ocean, giving it a raw and rugged character that feels alive underfoot.
During the Japanese occupation in the early twentieth century, Songak Mountain took on a darker role. The Japanese military saw the mountain’s strategic location and transformed it into a coastal defense base. They built tunnels deep into the crater walls, carving out hidden passages where soldiers could move unseen and store supplies. These tunnels still echo with a quiet chill today, and walking past them feels like touching a shadow of the past.
Along the narrow plains below, they constructed temporary airstrips meant for emergency takeoffs and landings. The airstrips were built quickly and roughly, blending into the island’s rugged terrain. Their purpose was clear: to support naval and aerial defenses and to serve as a final line of retreat if the Allied forces advanced.
Yet, despite this chapter of conflict, Songak Mountain radiates peace. The coastal trails wrap around its crater and lead to panoramic views where the sea and sky meet in a soft blue blur. From the edge, the world seems to pause. Locals and visitors come here not only to hike but to feel a sense of stillness that is rare in daily life. Songak Mountain carries its history quietly, offering a space where each step feels both heavy with memory and light with sea air.
Ocean Whispers — Chagwido Island
Off the western edge of Jeju, Chagwido Island sits like a quiet guardian in the sea. From the shore, it looks almost like a floating emerald, its low, gentle peaks rising out of the deep blue waters. The island feels distant yet inviting, holding stories that drift over the waves like whispers. Scattered across Chagwido are subtle remnants of the few who once lived or stayed there Weather-worn stone walls and small foundations now hidden under wild grasses. At the far edge stands a simple white lighthouse.
Chagwido has long been cherished by Jeju’s fishing community. The waters around the island are rich with marine life, and for generations, local fishermen have sailed here in search of abalone, sea urchin, and a variety of fish that help shape Jeju’s distinct culinary traditions. Long before tourists discovered these coasts, Chagwido was a lifeline, a place where islanders read the sea’s moods and measured the day by the pull of the tides.
This island also holds a special place in the hearts of Jeju’s haenyeo, the famous female divers who have become symbols of the island’s spirit. These women have braved the cold waves and strong currents around Chagwido for centuries, diving without oxygen tanks, guided only by experience and intuition. Their work is both physically demanding and deeply poetic, a quiet dance with the ocean that carries the rhythms of a way of life now recognized as UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage. Many haenyeo view Chagwido not just as a fishing ground but as a living companion, a presence that listens and responds to their calls beneath the surface.
Before You Go: Songak Mountain and Chagwido Island Travel Tips
Getting There
Songak Mountain is about an hour’s drive from Jeju City along the southwestern coast, offering a beautiful seaside journey the entire way.
For those taking public transportation, local buses run to Songaksan, and from the stop, a short and clearly marked path leads directly to the main trail entrance.
To visit Chagwido Island, head to Moseulpo Port, where local boats depart regularly for tours and drop-offs around the island.
The boat ride feels like a small adventure, with salty air and sweeping ocean views all around.
What’s Nearby
After exploring Songak and Chagwido, Moseulpo’s fishing village offers fresh seafood markets and local restaurants serving Jeju-style abalone porridge, grilled mackerel, and seaweed soup.
The coastal road nearby is lined with quiet cafés where you can sit by the window and watch the horizon melt into the sea.
If you have extra time, the nearby Hamo Beach offers a soft stretch of sand perfect for a gentle stroll or a peaceful rest after your coastal adventure.
Best Time to Visit
Spring (April to June) brings wildflowers to Songak’s slopes and clear skies over Chagwido’s turquoise waters.
Autumn (September to November) offers cool breezes, crisp air, and some of the most colorful sunsets you will find on Jeju.
Summer is lush and vibrant, while winter reveals a quieter, more solitary side of the coast, perfect for reflective walks.
Tips for the Best Experience
Wear comfortable shoes with good grip for Songak’s coastal paths and crater trails.
Bring a light windbreaker to stay warm against the ocean breeze, especially in the evenings.
Consider taking a waterproof camera or a dry bag if you plan to explore around Chagwido by boat or try snorkeling.
Pack small snacks and extra water so you can take long, slow breaks on cliff edges or sun-warmed rocks.
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